Sunday, December 23, 2007

By the numbers

  • 16 Countries visited
  • 4 Months spent traveling
  • 3 Months spent outside the US
  • 200 Average cost per day in Europe for food, lodging, and transportation
  • 50 Average cost per day in India for lots of food, lodging, and transportation
  • .7 Euro cents per dollar
  • 50 Rupees per dollar
  • 10 Flights taken
  • 3 Types of livestock used for transportation
  • 19 Different types of transportation used
    • (feet, rental car, taxi, rickshaw, plane, hot air balloon, gondola, donkey, camel, horse, ferry, catamaran, scooter, felucca, motor boat, bus, train, bike, Jeep,)
  • 10 Pounds lost by Brandon
  • 10 Pounds lost by Jessica
  • 15 Hours for the longest train ride we took- Mumbai to Madagon
  • 17 Hours for the longest plane trip we took- Mumbai to New York
  • 4 Nights I convinced Jessica to sleep in a car instead of getting a hotel
  • 4 Nights I had to get a nicer hotel to make up for sleeping in the car
  • 15 Degrees Fahrenheit of the coldest day we had- Austria
  • 95 Degrees Fahrenheit of the hottest day we had- Agonda
  • 2 Feet it snowed while we were in Austria
  • 13,073,926 Population of Mumbai- the largest city in the world

Surprise

We came home for Christmas! Shocking, again, would be a good adjective to use when describing the looks on our Moms' faces. The Schmids, Jessica's family, have an unnatural love of surprises. When we decided to come home, for reasons i will outline in the next paragraph, Jessica insisted that it be a surprise. My brother picked us up from the airport on Tuesday afternoon. We intercepted Jessica's mom returning to work from her lunch break. I had joked in the car that we were going to give someone a heart attack showing up unannounced. Jeannie physically grasped her chest as she let out a shrieking scream in the Tri-City School parking lot. For a moment I was contemplating how to explain to the police that this woman screamed and then collapsed; a suspect story for sure. That evening my Mom gave a similar performance, and Grandma also the following morning.

So why did we come home early? Our original plan was to be gone six months to a year and also included South East Asia, South and Central America. Regions we had yet to travel to. As I sat on a 17 hour flight from Mumbai to New York with a dozen screaming children I asked myself that very question along with why I had decided to not drug myself with NyQuil like Jessica had. She was sleeping soundly next to me. I had plenty of time to solidify the loose net of reasons that had compelled us to buy tickets to LA instead of Bangkok the previous week. So here are the reasons in no particular order:
  • We were getting close to our budget limit.
  • We were bored with traveling- This may sound lame but there is a declining marginal benefit to seeing the 1000th temple, cathedral, or museum.
  • We both love Christmas and there was not a lot of it in a predominantly Hindi and Muslim country.
  • We agreed that we would like to continue international traveling but do the other regions at a later date and in one month increments.
  • We felt that we had accomplished most of what we set out to do.
  • I was sitting on a near deserted coconut palm fringed beach with a beautiful woman. The air temperature was 80 degrees and the water was the same. I had just ate breakfast for less than $1. I had (still have) no job, no agenda, and the biggest decision of the day would be what type of beer to have with dinner. I though ''this is it,'' this is what people dream their entire lives of doing. I felt a sense of completion and a desire to stop being a bum and get a job.
  • Tax season is starting and it would be a good time to get a job in the industry.
  • After a lot of prayer, short of an audible voices or angles, we felt that it was what God wanted us to do.

Monday, December 10, 2007

Do you smell that?




When most people describe India the word shocking is used. And that is the best way to describe it. We were so shocked, in fact, that we forgot to take any pictures of all the craziness in Mumbai. I found that I was not only visually overloaded but my nose could not process all the different smells. As we rode to our hotel by taxi the smells changed from sewage, to incense, to fresh food, to the sweat from our driver, Our own B.O., to exhaust, back to sewage, more sweat, cheep cologne, and more exhaust. We were shocked at the number of people sleeping in the street. Not the cliche 'sleeping in the street.' The city is so crowded that people are actually sleeping on the center islands and between parked cars.
You may have noticed that I have been growing a moustache I believe it has come in handy in India. The moustache says don't mess with me or my wife and don't rip me off. At least I think it does?
Jessica summed up the rest of our experience thus far...

Jordan Photos



Be sure to read the captions.

Sticky hugs from India

A warm and muggy hello from India! Funny how it's been kinda chilli at most of the places we have been, and we just want it to be warmer. Well, we got what we asked for, and I'm already wanting the cold back! I have a permanenet sweat going on. Bran says I'm glowing, mainly to earn points, but I'll take it.

We have made it safe and sound. We flew into Mumbai in the wee morning hours of the 8th, and the adventure began. We shared a taxi from the airport,to the train station (which was right by our hotel) with a young girl who looked like your typical hippie who would be going to India.At first I was skeptical when she approached us asking to share a taxi, but I think she was an angel undercover. When our driver tried to harass more money for gas out of us, she quietly laughed it off. He was persistent, but her kind attitude just deferred his greediness.She had been to India in the beginning of the year, and kind of gave us the low down on the area.
Arriving safely at the station, we only had a short walk to the hotel. But which way? After turning in a few circles, we looked up to see a neon sign glowing like a star guiding our way. We ended up crashing for a few hours then walked around the area. It is what everyone said it would be: shocking, crazy, dirty, overwhelming. Although, not as bad as I was expecting. People did not harass like Ciaro, they were sweet and always willing to help and offer a smile. They are so so poor, but seem to be full of love. My senses were overwhelmed, within just 15 min. such smells as dirt, cooking chicken, piss, popcorn,human filth, burning trash...You can hardly walk while you're trying to take in everything around you. You must, however, always keep an eye on the floor since there are holes, bumps, piss, and trash all over the place. I hate to report, but even people were all over the ground. So many people were sleeping when we arrived at 5am, it was endless rows of lumps laying on the ground.

The only train ride we could get was the next day on in a non ac car.That, or wait three days for the next available train. We grabbed those seats happily. We met a very nice couple at the train station, from Norway, and turns out they were in our sleeper car.So, there were six beds, and we already knew two. God is so good. We spent 14 hours traveling down to the Goa area. (which was only about 700 km away!) Our train was suppose to leave at 6:50am,and left only one hour late, and we pulled into Goa at 830 pm. The fourteen plus hours were spent soaking in our surroundings, trying to sleep, read, or avoid the cockroaches. Yes, there were a few friends with us, which made the idea of sleeping even more difficult. However, I am ashamed to admit, after being used to seeing some, they don't freak me out like they used to. For the entire train ride, we had vendors running back and forth selling their goods with powerful and quick tongues. "Chi chi chi chi" holding a canister of it close to you. "Coffee coffee coffee?" sandwiches, chicken lollies (chicken on a stick) ice cream, fruit, water, all in the same quick, accented, repetitious sounds. They might as well have been saying, "Diarrhea, Diarrhea, you want some?" I was not about to touch anything. Especially since there was only a hole for a bathroom that went straight onto the tracks. I have had my share of it on our trip, but thankfully not yet on a confined, public, transport system, and I would like to keep it that way. In fact, I dehydrated myself so I didn't have to use the toilet once, and drank like a camel once we got off.

We shared a taxi to Colva on the coast a quick 10 min ride. By now it was about 9pm, and the search for hotels was on. The first few we tried were booked, odd considering it was a Sunday. However, it seems that most of the Lonely Planet hotels are. Finally, we found an apt style with two separate rooms and bathrooms, for 1200 total. Only 600 Rupies each. That is about 10US. Welcome to India.

Today we took the public bus south a few km. south. It was only 6 Rupies, so about 10 cents US. Not bad. Another angel looking out for us, and a sweet German couple saw us wandering around with our packs on, looking for a place to stay. She was a fellow traveler, and just knew that tired, sweat dripping in every crack, we need to find a place look. She pointed us to Paula Ritas, and its clean and safe for only 400 Rupies. A four mile walk today, and we found some quiet and deserted beach areas. Most of the beaches right by the towns and hotels are busy and crowded. So, our strategy is to simply walk a bit, and the whole beach is desolate. Seems so simple, but most people are just so lazy or hot, they plop down right on top of each other.

Tomorrow.. heading south more? We shall see.

Friday, December 7, 2007

Let me take you on a journey

On Dec 7, 2007 10:21 AM, Jessica Stone wrote:
Egypt. One of the things I most enjoyed was discovering, watching, and enjoying, a new place, climate, and people I had never experienced before. When Egypt is mentioned, most people conjure up images of pyramids, tombs, camels, and unending desert. While these are all accurate, there is actually so much more going on than I thought. One way I would like to share this with you, is by taking you on a short journey with me. A trek that uses many different forms of transportation, which was one of the highlights of this trip:

~Camel Ride~ Through the ancient pyramids was a whole new experience for me. Our journey was both hilarious and sketchy, especially trying to hold onto these animals as they stand up and sit down. I wondered how people long ago, and still today, use these guys as their main form of transportation- I think two hours on them would do me in! We were a sight to behold, 23 of us laughing, smiling, yelling, as our camels bobbed up and down, graceful in their own way. An odd mix of awkward and goofy, while demanding respect from their height and weight. Yet, I could help but gently stroke their neck because they are rather cute with their long legs and long eyelashes.
~Boat Taxi~ In Aswan, this is a major form of transportation. Just when I thought our little boat looked full, I saw one oozing with Egyptian men holding onto the top as their feet practically drug in the water. They gracefully glide on the water, but ram into each other while loading and unloading-their tin boats are rather dinged up, the rubber tires along the side a mere decoration I suppose. My favorite was one night to Elephantine Island where a family so generously opened their home for 23 of us. His wife cooked great food, and we even got a tour of their home. A true taste of Egyptian hospitality, especially as we went to leave I saw his wife bent over washing all of our dishes using only two bowls of water.
~Feluccas~ No motors, no steering wheel, just a small rudder to steer us along the Nile. To cruise along the Nile in such fashion made life seem so simple and serene. That night, we docked to eat and hang out on the beach. The locals and our boat guys made a fire, and welcomed us to join. Soon, they produced some basic instruments, and from them created delightful music. They started dancing and invited us to join in. After a while, it was a huge mix of all different nationalities, singing and dancing together by fire and moonlight. The meals that we were served were some of the best in all of Egypt. The staple is Pita with every meal, together with beans, rice, eggs, tomatoes, cucumbers, hummus, meat, soup, pasta, and all made from the young boy on our boat with just one burner! I was so impressed.
~Walking~ You can miss many things from inside the shelter of a big bus, even a taxi. Most of my favorite experiences were as we wondered through the streets. Almost all the stores are inside/outside with people haggling, beckoning, joking with you, just so you'll step inside their shop. Some are just plain rude and aggressive, but most are just trying to get your attention or make you laugh. How else are you suppose to respond to, "come, let me help you spend your money" Or, "How many camels for her?" At first I was taken back, and slight offended, until I realized how many people really value camels, I just made me laugh. My personal favorite, "How many camels for you, so pretty" this guys asked me directly. I replied, "As many as there are stars in the sky!" Thinking that would get him, he pondered my response and said, "OK, I can do that' I left laughing so hard I was holding my sides.
~Donkey~ Another sight to see, 23 of us scurrying along roads, cliffs, alleys, shouting Arabic commands to them. They knew better than to listen to us, and just ran amuck. We rode them to the Valley of the Kings, a long valley nestled between huge mountains in the middle of no where. We visited three tombs of the dead Pharaohs. I was amazed at how well preserved they were. The detailed hieroglyphics and vivid color in some. Subsequently, I was saddened to think how much blood, sweat and tears had gone towards these rich men's tombs and temples.
~Bus~ We traveled by large coach bus since there were so many of us. Sometimes it was wonderful when we had long journeys. Like the 15 hour ride around the Red Sea since the two hour ferry ride was cancelled. Also, when it looked hot and dusty outside I could not help but think of the Isrealites. They had walked, rather wandered, this entire area, on foot for over years. However, I did feel high and mighty as we drove past ramshackle homes leaving dust in the small children's eyes. One ride was a three hour convoy at 3 am headed for Abu Simbel in the middle of the desert. The convoy, consisting of at least 400 other vehicles, was apparently needed for our safety. So odd. Abu was pretty spectacular, originally carved right out of a mountain-but now sits against a fake one since it was excavated from under water once the Aswan dam was built. The architecture is awe-inspiring, but I was torn knowing most of these were built for idol worship. I found a balance by praying to God while walking through the huge corridors with statues glaring down at me.
~Hot Air Balloon~ I managed to convince Brandon to do this one with me. I have always wanted to do this, and at Egyptian prices, we just had to! Watching the land slowly get smaller below us was great. I particularly enjoyed getting an up close view on people's houses, even watching some doing their everyday chores.
~Diving/snorkeling~ Dahab.Certainly a slower means of getting around, but very enjoyable. I had strong feeling about not diving, when I realized I had never given it a fair chance. So, I chalked one up on the adventure board and tried it. We only went down about 15 feet, with the instructor holding onto us the whole way. He did everything, but I did breath on my own with the odd regulator. Not nearly as creepy as I imagined, and since it was so clear the ocean just seemed to come alive. It was enough to make me think, 'I could get into this!'
~Hiking~ My favorite hike was to Mt. Sini. We had to hike at night, due to warm temperatures during the day. This meant starting at one am. No need for a flashlight, the moon guided us the entire way. I even saw two shooting stars! A mild hike brought us to the top at 3 am, and we were suppose to sleep until the sunset. I couldn't really sleep, not due to the sub zero temperatures, but rather thinking about where I was. God was here, chatting it up with Moses. How cool is that???
~Horses~ Jordan. Petra was breathtaking. A fusion of Gods creation, with the hands and ingenuity God created, to make an entire city built from the sandstone mountains. We did part of the tour by horse. I had envisioned galloping down the middle of the narrow entrance, just like Indiana Jones, but mine just wanted to meander. He was then beat on by the evil horse keepers, which almost made me cry. I would hate to be and animal in the Middle East for sure. All I can say is Karma.


My Favorite? Dahab.A small town on the sparkling, crystal clear Red Sea. The beach side is dotted with mellow restaurants that have no windows and cushion seating on the floor. The area is famous for it's fresh seafood, diving, and thick shakes-the latter of which I tried every flavor by having one every single day. The people there were so friendly, and sincere. The typical come and visit my shop/restaurant banter, but kinder. After just a few days, most people recognized us and offered a friendly chat and all smiles when we passed by them.


Such a unique time of traveling. We made some great friends along the way on our tour, and it was just "lovely" to have other people around to hang out with. (I try to use lovely, like this adorable British woman on our tour, but I just can't seem to pull it off. So many strange experiences, and learning about people that I had never interacted with. It made me so excited to see more places and people... which is just what will happen as we head off to India.....

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Thoughts on Egypt and Jordan

  • Time is Subjective- Egyptians love saying "Egyptian Time"
  • The staple food is Pita Bread-served at every meal
  • Everyone wants to welcome you to their country- It makes you feel welcome
  • Driving is an art not a science
  • Tea is the staple drink- "Egyptian Whiskey"
  • I am convinced Arab woman where veals because they are sick of being harassed by Arab men not because they are socially conservative- Jess can attest to this
  • A smile goes a long ways
  • You can meet a stranger and chat with them in their store while drinking tea with no expectation of buying anything
  • Donkeys are better lead than rode
  • Camels only have bottom teeth, no top
  • Camels make a horrific sound when forced to stand up with a rider
  • While watching Aljazeera news in Jordan the headlines read, "One Palestinian killed in the Gaza strip, One Person Killed and one seriously injured in a mail bombing in Pairs, and 8 persons killed in a shopping mall shooting in America." It was odd to feel safer wandering the chaotic streets and markets of the Middle East than shopping in a mall in America
  • The quality of a hotel is based on how well the door locks, if there is a heater that works, and if there is hot water
  • hand washing clothes in a sink is not that bad.
  • Don't get in a taxi that is leaking gas on the road even if the driver assures you it is safe and he drives with a leaky gas tank all the time
  • Mail in Egypt never reaches it's destination